The Arab heart of Mexico City
Originally published on Middle East Eye on November 15, 2016. Arab immigrants have become a normal part of everyday life, but in many ways they remain a community apart A
The Ghosts of Christmas Past
The city of Bethlehem wants the world to know it’s more than a Biblical theme park.
Feats of Strength and Street Politics in Tehran – مواقع القوة وسياسات الشارع في طهران
Originally published in Journal Safar in September 2021 as part of Issue VI: Power. On the nights leading up to Ashura, the streets of Tehran turn a thousand shades of
“Why Did So Many People Think This War Was a Good Idea?”
Published in the June 2026 issue of The Nation. The story of how millions of Iranians fell for the regime-change fantasy. “There is nothing to be worried about. Israel and
Hormuz: A Psychedelic Ride through a Geological Wonder
Originally published in Kinfolk Islands in September 2022, pgs. 74-85. The Strait of Hormuz gets a bad rap. Sandwiched between Iran, Oman and the United Arab Emirates in the Persian Gulf, this
Looking A Tyrant In the Eye: Iran’s Long Struggle for Freedom and Justice
Originally published in TIME magazine on March 14, 2026. I knew he was watching. Ayatollah Ali Khamenei’s portrait is everywhere in Iran. His head is usually turned slightly away, while
Naskh va Taaliq: Connections Between Iran and Pakistan, Old and New
In February 2020, I was invited on behalf of Ajam Media Collective to organize a workshop at the Lahore Biennale. Entitled, “Naskh va Taaliq,” the workshop explored cultural connections between
Learning the Language of Jesus Christ
Originally published by Roads and Kingdoms on November 2, 2015. Just a few hundred feet west of the church built atop the site where the Christian faithful believe Jesus was
Inside Mexico’s deep and unexpected legacy of Iranians
The Iranian presence in Mexico dates back centuries, but became even more pronounced when the Shah of Iran sought refuge there after he was overthrown in 1979. Originally published on
From City to Slope in Iran
Originally published in Kinfolk Travel in September 2021, pgs. 146-153.
Alex Shams
Alex Shams is a writer and anthropologist with a PhD from the University of Chicago.
He is editor-in-chief of Ajam Media Collective, a platform focused on culture, society, and politics in West and Central Asia. He previously worked as a journalist and researcher in the Middle East, based in Iran, Lebanon, and Palestine.
He has curated several artistic projects, including a workshop at the Lahore Biennale (2020) and the Mexican photographic series Sementerxs (2024). He is currently working on a non-fiction book, a historical novel, and a TV series.
He received his master's from Harvard University and his bachelor's from the University of Southern California. His articles are archived on this site.